A Common-Sense Guide to Bra Fitting

Statistics show that around 75% of women are wearing the wrong size bra, and after six years working as a lingerie expert (yes, that job title does exist), I would say the actual percentage is even higher than that. Straps riding up, straps falling down, ugly lumps here there and everywhere, back pain and discomfort…. These are just a few of the problems women everywhere struggle with day after day. Well ladies, help is finally at hand.

Finding a well fitting bra is easy when you know how. There are no mysterious formulas or industry secrets. You don’t need to spend a fortune on expensive lingerie, or buy the scary hammocks-with-scaffolding that our grannies used to wear. Just follow these common-sense rules and you will be well on the way to proper posture, a smooth silhouette and most importantly - comfort!

The Basics

The instructions that you often read about how to measure yourself for a bra are actually pretty good. Yes, you do measure in two places, do some maths and hey presto - there’s your bra size. However, what these instructions don’t tell you is that they are a guide only. You will probably be a different size in every style bra that you try. Some styles will not fit you in any size. Take me for example. I have bras in two different back sizes and four different cup sizes and THEY ALL FIT. So what size am I? Who knows!

But, it’s a good place to start, so here goes - the basics of bra fitting

1. THE NUMBER

Measure around your rib cage, just under the bust. Two things here to make sure of. First, use a mirror to ensure that the tape is horizontal, as even a slight angle could give you the wrong measurement. Second, pull the tape tight. Tighter than you would want your bra to be. Remember, tape measures do not stretch, bra straps do, so your bra will be more comfortable than the tape. However, bear in mind that the back strap of a bra has to be quite tight. If it’s too loose, it will ride up creating bulges under your shoulder blades and around the underarms. The front will also drop down and you will be left with no support, hunched shoulders and a dreadful silhouette. Also, bras loosen up with washing and wearing so for your bank account's sake, choose one that has room to do this.

Once you have your measurement, in inches, you need to do your sums. If your number is even, add 4 (eg 30 inches + 4 = 34). If it is odd, add 5 (eg 29 inches + 5 = 34). Et voila! Your guide size is 34. Easy eh?

2. THE LETTER

The second step is less accurate, and as professionals we used to skip it and just guess. But if you haven’t measured hundreds of women like I have, you may want to use it. Basically, you need to measure around the fullest part of your bust, making sure, as in step 1 that the tape is horizontal. No need to pull the tape tight this time. Then, more maths. Each inch between your measurements is the equivalent of one cup size. So if, as in step 1, your 1st number was 34 (after doing your sum) and your 2^nd number is 37, you are a 34C. If your 1st number is 32 and your 2^nd number is 37, you are a 32DD.

Now for the tricky part. You need to try several sizes in each of your chosen styles and follow the checklist below. So, if you are a 34C, try a 32D, 34C, 34D and maybe a 32DD. If you’re shopping online, order all of them and send back the ones you don’t want.

Changing room workout

When you are trying the bras you need to put them through their paces. Reach down and touch your toes. Raise your arms. Stretch to the side. Jump up and down. All of these tests will give you a good idea whether the bra will stay put or ping off at the first opportunity. Also, try your clothing on over the potential bra. It’s amazing how often a well fitting bra can actually make your chest look slightly strange!

The three key components of a bra are the straps, the wires and the cups. Here’s what they should all be doing:

The Straps

The back strap, as mentioned before, needs to be quite tight as it does most of the supporting work. It should be horizontal, and should stay that way. If it rides up at all, it is too big - tighten it, or try the next size down. It is a good idea to try to choose a bra that fits when fastened on the loosest hook. This allows for the loosening effect of washing and wearing.

Of course if the strap is so tight that it makes breathing tricky, it is too tight - try the next size up, quickly, before you pass out.

The shoulder straps should be adjusted to find a comfortable yet supportive position. The only important thing to watch out for is that they don’t dig in to your shoulders or feel uncomfortable. Don’t be tempted to compensate for a loose back strap by tightening the shoulders, as this will make the riding-up-back, falling-down-front effect even worse. And whatever you do, don’t go for a style with elasticated shoulder straps as you will have no support whatsoever, and may cause cars to crash if you run for a bus.

The Wires

The wires should fit comfortably around the breast, flat against the body. They should not touch the breast at all. In the centre, they should be flat against the breastbone. Underneath, flat against the ribcage. At the sides, in line with the hollow of the underarm. You should not be able to get much more than two finger-widths under the wire at any point. If you can, or the wire is visibly standing away from the body, the cup is too small. If, on the other hand, the wire is digging into your underarm, it may either be too big, or the style may be unsuitable for you.

The Cups

The cups should fit smoothly with no bagging or bulges. The best way to check is to put a slim fitting top over and look at your silhouette. Remember to move your arms about to see if this creates any bulges that weren’t initially obvious. If, like the vast majority of women, you have one side bigger than the other, always fit to the larger size. You may be best to try a moulded cup, like a wonderbra or balconette style as these can have a discreet pad added to even things out.

And the final, most important check of all

Is it comfortable, and does it make you feel good? If so, your days of tugging at straps, bending wires this way and that and breathing a sigh of relief when you get undressed could well be over.